Trip Report: Stumptown Coffee Roasters


Currently brewing and enjoying some Rwanda Musasa that I bought at the recently-opened Stumptown on Pine St. here in Seattle. I was a fan of the coffee shop that used to be where Stumptown now stands; it was called Aurafice and while I admit the coffee wasn’t very good, it had a scrappy, old-school independent shop feel that endeared itself to me.

The new shop is clean inside, almost to the point of sterility, but I see them adding new things every few days: painting on the windows, adding new shelves. To the right are some truly vintage home espresso machines that sit on the shelves above their whole bean coffees, which I thought were neat–I almost considered making them an offer on one. It promises to be a neat-looking little shop when they get it finished, and outlets are thankfully plentiful. (How sad is it that that’s one of the first things I check for? …after seeing whether the coffee’s any good of course.)

I don’t often drink Stumptown because while visiting their shops when I’m in Portland, I’ve found their coffees to be hit or miss. Some are great, such as their Mexican Chiapas, but I especially haven’t been a fan of their African coffees in the past. However, I visited this new one and upon seeing their Rwandan I decided to give it a try. Rwanda used to be rather hard to find, and the last time I tasted it was the last time I roasted some Maraba about two years ago, before I couldn’t get any more through my dealer. Now, Rwanda is becoming more and more of a player in the coffee-producing world, producing about 26,000 tons of coffee per year which comprise over 60% of total exports. This is a good thing, because I’ve long considered quality Rwandan to be one of the market’s most-overlooked coffees.

Fortunately, the Stumptown beans were superb. There were the notes of coffee blossom and mild hint of orange rind I expect to find in a top-shelf Rwandan, buoyed on a dark chocolate base. I may well have to change my formerly so-so opinion of Stumptown. There are some days I love being wrong, and this is one of them.


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Reader Comments

You mention flavor notes in the Rwandan coffee. How does one go about learning to identify such flavor notes, developing a palate, etc? I know the short answer is to just taste a lot of coffee. But as with wine (another learning project of mine), I find that answer insufficient.

Roger–

Nothing replaces actual cupping sessions, of course, but there actually is another way. If you want to pick up the vocabulary and learn to recognize flavor notes in both coffee and wine, I recommend a Le Nez kit. Unfortunately, it’s also expensive, but it was what I learned on when I started roasting, and I still consider it an invaluable tool.

-a