Coffee Tao

(This is Part 1 of a 4-part series called “The Four ‘M’s of Perfect Coffee”, in which we’ll talk about the four elements of making great espresso-based drinks at home: Machine, Mill, Mix (blend), and Method.)

The First “M”: Machine

If you want to make great espresso at home, you should be aware that a good espresso machine will always start at at least a few hundred bucks. You don’t need to buy a commercial machine or drill holes through your kitchen counter to plumb a water line, but the quality of certain components is critical to get an adequate shot.

A good espresso/cappuccino machine has to do several things consistently: it needs to heat water quickly, maintain a certain pressure level in both the water lines and at the group head, and reliably push water through the group at about 130 psi for shot after shot. The actual mechanics of a machine can be very basic–a boiler/thermostat, water pump, solenoid, and group head/portafilter–but each component must be able to withstand constant starting and stopping and rapid temperature changes.

Wait, What About Fully Automatic Espresso/Cappuccino Machines?

Machines exist that allow you to push a single button and have the grinding, tamping, pulling, and steaming all done for you, and there’s more of them on the market now than ever. Why not get one of those? Simple: the machine that can produce good espresso and good steamed milk without human intervention simply doesn’t exist yet. It may one day, but for now no automatic machine can produce a coffee drink nearly as well as you can with your own hands in the same amount of time. The best coffee drinks are always made by hand, and let’s face it–if you’re not out to get the best coffee drink possible, why spend the money in the first place?

What to Look for in an Espresso Machine

So we’re abandoning the idea of an automatic machine, which is an advantage because a good manual machine will actually cost less than a so-so automatic one. With that in mind, what constitutes a good manual espresso machine?

1. The less plastic, the better. Ideally you want all-metal construction; not only does it look snazzy, but it retains heat better for a more consistent group head temperature. At the very least, the entire group head (the housing where you fit the portafilter to pull the shot) should be metal. It should not use a plastic “locking collar”; these tend to crack and fail easily. Make sure the locking mechanism is metal with rubber gaskets.
2. Skip the built-in tamper. Your tamper should always be separate from the machine. To pack espresso properly for extraction you need a tamp at about 50 psi, which you’ll never achieve with a plastic dongle hanging off your machine.
3. Semi-automatic shot pulling is ideal. Depending on the type, espresso machines can pull shots manually using a lever (aka the “old-school” way), fully automatically where the shot time is predetermined via set buttons, or semi-automatically where you can push a button to pull the shot but run it for as long or as short as you wish. The latter is ideal in my opinion for a balance of ease and control. There’s nothing wrong with going all-manual if you like the romance of lever-pulling, but all else being equal it won’t pull you a better shot.
4. Metal boilers with reliable pump pressure are best. There’s a theme here, and that theme says that your shot is only going to be as good as the weakest link in your chain. That weak link is almost always going to be either uneven temperatures or an underpowered pump. Metal boilers heat quickly and maintain even temps; it’s not 100% crucial that your reservoir be metal, but if you plan to use your machine more than once a day you’ll definitely notice the difference. As for pumps, make sure you’re getting a machine with a 15-bar pressure capability. More isn’t really necessary, but less means your machine isn’t strong enough to consistently achieve the 130 psi required for proper espresso extraction.
5. Boiler or plumb a line? If you’re serious about your espresso addiction and plan to use your machine several times a day, consider getting a pump-driven machine and plumbing a water line so you don’t have to wait for the boiler to warm up each time. If you’re a casual espresso/cappuccino drinker or only plan to make yourself Americanos on your way out the door to work each morning, a reservoir-based machine will be fine.
6. Get a flexible steam wand with a lot of clearance. This is one aspect too many manufacturers neglect. The wand should be long enough to reach deep into your frothing pitcher, and flexible enough/have enough clearance that you can put the steam head near the top of your pitcher without hitting the pitcher on your kitchen counter. You can’t get proper cappuccino froth without that full clearance, so make sure the wand is one you can actually use. Steaming milk isn’t a static exercise and involves a lot of hand movement, but we’ll go more into that when we discuss the fourth “M”, method.

With these basics in mind, anything on top of that is up to you. Cup warming trays, multiple group heads, hot water dispensers–these are nice additions if you have the budget, but shouldn’t be deciding factors in your purchase.

Got Any Recommendations?

Espresso machine prices go up and down, and availability changes each year, so I hesitate to make canonical recommendations. But here are two machines I can recommend right now–the first for an entry-level machine, the second for the hardcore professional.

Saeco 30013 Aroma Traditional Espresso Machine–A basic, reliable workhorse that will get the job done well with a minimum of fuss. Saeco is a strong brand in the mid-level market, so parts and service are easily obtainable. You can pick one up at the time of this writing for about $250.

Salvatore Semi-Automatic Custom Espresso Machine–I don’t mind telling you that this is my dream machine for home use. Based on the commercial standard E61 group head, this baby comes with a three-way solenoid valve, an electronic autofill water system, and a copper boiler with an industrial Sirai pressure stat and a 2″ diameter heat exchange (lets you steam and brew at the same time). A lot of the beauty of this machine is “behind the scenes” and have to be appreciated via daily use–there’s not a lot of added features on the Salvatore, but that’s like complaining that your Ferrari doesn’t have cupholders. A custom Salvatore starts at around $1800, however, so this is for the hardcore only.